Greenland in Transition – Nuuk

Nuuk, Greenland
Pictures, November 3-6, 2019 Post, January 29, 2020

Old Nuuk is no longer old . . .

Hans Egede’s statue still presides over Nuuk from his rocky mound. We can feel his presence. During his tenure in the mid-18th century, buildings of Scandinavian design and wood were imported as “timber kits” and assembled in Greenland. In the days before street names and numbers, buildings were color coded. Red church buildings, yellow hospitals and places of healing, blue fish factories; homes were often white.

The twin traditions of timber kits and colorful buildings persist although the color code is no longer maintained. The Cathedral of Greenland is red.

So are many homes. Most homes are still small, simple designs built of timber kits shipped from Denmark and emphasizing functional needs of the unique Greenland environment.

In the harbor is a rack of old style kayaks. Unbelievably, boats like these were used for hunting whales, seals, and for fishing. Greenland’s resources were used to build these simple boats and provided settlers with the essentials for life in the cold.

Modern means . . .

The modern reality now is huge ships, loaded with containers, arriving from Denmark. Huge cranes unload the containers. A single container now brings bigger buildings, modern clothes and all the “stuff” available in modern society.

These homes show the adaption of Greenlandic traditions to modern life. They are larger and complete with all modern conveniences. Fascinating to me is the use of underground cables and pipes to bring electricity and water to each house. Remember the rocky mound beneath Edege’s statue? See the rock in the image foreground? Rock is everywhere. But all utilities are underground.

Modern means the foundation for a future colorful home will be built with modern tools and equipment.

Modern means more housing units. Individual homes are not enough. In the 1960’s, 70’s, 80’s, and 90’s large apartment building were constructed. Basic, simple, utilitarian, inexpensive.

Modern means lots of people, but relatively few cars.

So modern means lots of walking.

So modern means lots of buses.

Daily living is . . .

Daily living in Greenland looks like daily living anywhere. Lots of maintenance jobs.

A shopping center with offices above.

Could you even guess what country you are in?

Those big containers from Denmark provide lots of the nice things in life.

Five construction cranes in a single image!

Some modern architecture.

Newer, much nicer apartment buildings.

The “White Church” has a very different appearance, but the spirit is still there.

If you need WiFi, perhaps you can get it by holding the phone against the library wall!

Your town could be anywhere.

But let’s not go overboard . . .

Greenland traditions still infuse modern life. Herring in the for sale cooler,

next to seal meat on the display counter. The fish market still links to fresh fish caught in local waters.

The cemetery where Greenland’s loved ones can still smell the sea!

Nuuk showcases modern life amid traditional values.

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17 Comments

  1. Beautiful pictures!!

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    1. THANKS! Nuuk is an incredible place so it’s easy to get nice pictures!

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    2. THANKS! I didn’t know what to expect so my vision of Greenland was completely altered too.

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  2. Hugely interesting. These pictures alter my visions of Greenland.

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  3. Fascinating. Too bad all those cranes mess up the view! It’s hard to imagine a small country like Denmark as the source of all modernity and groceries! And it’s remarkable all utilities are underground. Perhaps with all that rock they don’t have to worry as much about melting permafrost? It’s certainly creating havoc in Siberia!

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    1. Most of the ships leave from Denmark – which currently provides a huge subsidy to Greenland. But the imported goods – and services – come from all over. Greenland doesn’t really have the permafrost like Alaska. Over 90% of the country is covered in a permanent ice cap often thousands of feet thick. That is melting. But almost the population lives below the arctic circle on rocky ground next to the ocean. No ice, snow, or permafrost there while I’ll was in Nuuk.

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  4. Always a grest story pictorial. Thanks for being our eyes & heart in the netherlands of Greenland.

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    1. Thanks Otis – I have two more post on Greenland planned, but my view is so limited I have to go back. Want to come with me?!

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  5. Thanks Barry
    Very enjoyable as always!
    Don

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    1. Thank you – I’ll always appreciate the help you gave me in starting this blog!!!

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  6. Love the pictures and commentary as always. It really does have it’s own unique look. Beautiful and interesting!

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    1. Thank you! But soon I want to come back and visit you! Then go back to Greenland!

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  7. Barry,

    Once again, great work.

    You’re lucky not to be in the US these days.

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  8. Thanks Phil! Unfortunately I’m back in the US. Trying to save up enough money for my next trip – to Antarctica in October!

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  9. Barry,
    Thank you for bringing the world to us through your pictures and dialogue. I love to hear your voice through your words. You capture the history and the every day life of Greenland. So glad we will be seeing Antarctica through your eyes soon.
    Carol Reid

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  10. Barry,
    Thank you again for your wonderful pictures and stories! I’ve read through this 3 times as an escape to a simpler life where traditions still matter. With what is going on in our country, an escape, at least in my imagination, is just necessary. Thank you for providing that. I have really loved reading about and seeing your adventures, you are kind to share them. My favorite thing in Greenland is the colorful houses which give the land there such character.

    Reply

    1. Thanks! Unfortunately, my next post will describe a few drawbacks to modernization. I’m anxious to get back to Greenland and see more because greenland is not only beautiful and interesting, but also filled with wonderful people!

      Reply

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